2022 Domaine Hubert Lignier Les Chaffots, Morey-Saint-Denis Premier Cru, France

The Ligniers own just under half a hectare of vines planted in 1968 in this great premier cru, which sits just above Clos-Saint-Denis on the slope. Les Chaffots is the muscular, brooding counterpart to the more elegant La Riotte above, offering an immensity of structure and ruggedness of fruit that allows the wine to age effortlessly for decades. It is even more profoundly mineral-driven than La Riotte, with a deeper register to its spicy, meaty aromas, and an almost shocking intensity and concentration on the palate. This is rich and broad, but still amazingly gracefulbeautifully old-school in its demeanor.